Good Friday in San Miguel de Allende is an excellent place to start if you want to get a good look at how Mexico celebrates Easter. The most poignant moments in the city’s Semana Santa (“Holy Week”) celebrations occur on this day.

In the predominantly Catholic country of Mexico, Semana Santa is a highly revered period of the year. And San Miguel de Allende (SMA) is one of the best places in Mexico to enjoy the Holy Week celebrations.

As the Lent season creeps to a close, foreign visitors as well as Mexicans from all over the country, flock to SMA to watch the grand finale.

A day of somber reflection during Semana Santa

On Good Friday (“Santo Viernes”), Christians around the world recall the greatest day of sacrifice known to the community: the day of the trial, crucifixion, and burial of Jesus Christ.

The manner of reflection differs from place to place.

In San Miguel de Allende, reverence and passions collide on Good Friday.

A passion play depicting the trial of Christ, followed by a funeral procession, are the major highlights of Good Friday (“Santo Encuentro” and “Santo Entierro”).

If you’re in town, or nearby, don’t think twice about it: go see the Good Friday celebrations. I vividly recall seeing the Santo Entierro activities on a recent visit to San Miguel de Allende – it was a highlight of my trip.

Good Friday in San Miguel de Allende: arrival and crowd etiquette for Santo Entierro procession

Around 10am on Good Friday, we start making our way briskly to El Jardín (Plaza Allende). Folks have advised us that things will get crowded so we know better than to arrive later – the Santo Entierro procession is expected around 11am. My companion, Claire, is a fellow solo traveler from England. We met only a few days prior in nearby Guanajuato and it turns out that we have a similar travel itinerary. It’s nice to have the company.

“Crowded” turns out to be wildly understated… the entire town appears to be here. We pick a spot next to a dad and his little boy who is mounted on his shoulders (I’m a bit envious, the kid has the best seat in the house.)

As the parade hour nears, there’s a shift in the air and profound silence permeates the massive crowd. It is a far cry from the typical mood of the cheerful town of San Miguel de Allende and it further underscores how deeply Mexicans observe Good Friday.

Tip: Good Friday in San Miguel Allende is very somber. If attending, show respect by maintaining a quiet presence while watching the activities.

Who and what you will see in the Good Friday Procession in San Miguel de Allende

The SMA Good Friday procession features a host of symbolic statues and religious characters: the cross of crucifixion, the grieving Mary, Roman soldiers, guardian angels, and of course, a fallen Jesus Christ.

These roles are enacted primarily by local townsmen and young parishioners.

From robes to skirts to sashes, royal purple threads run dominantly through the attire of most participants.

On this Good Friday, and over the entire course of Semana Santa in Mexico, you will notice that purple appears dominantly, not only in attire worn during Easter festivities, but also in street and home decorations.

This is because purple is the colour of Lent, a symbol of repentance and royalty.

Good Friday in San Miguel de Allende: a photo diary of Santo Entierro

Early on in the Santo Entierro procession I become transfixed by the approach of the Roman centurion. The leading soldiers pierce the silence with a banging of the drums. Ominous-looking, fully-suited soldiers march solemnly towards us. Their coordination is on point, every step in unison. I am a bit dumbstruck – everyone plays their roles to the letter.

Little girls in white dresses and purple sashes appear next. I’m sure Claire must feel her heartstrings tugging as much as mine – these angels are adorable! The group walks slowly ahead, many positioned under a beam that supports several statues.

This is a common theme in the procession: suffering under the weight of heavy statues, where even the young are not exempt.

The body of Jesus Christ follows next in an elaborate glass coffin. He is flanked by guardian angels donning fluffy wings.

The ceremony is impactful. No one speaks for the entire time. We leave, still feeling incredulous – what a display of devotion.

San Miguel de Allende is without a doubt one of the best places to experience Easter in Mexico. The religious spectacle on Good Friday is not to be missed, but keep in mind that this is also one day of several unique experiences that occur throughout Semana Santa in Mexico (yes, there’s more!).

While religion may not be the typical basis of motivation for everyone’s travel, Mexico’s observance of Semana Santa is a worthy exception. I recommend this cultural experience to everyone – whether you are religious or not. Plus it comes with a spring bonus – a wonderful time of the year to be in beautiful Mexico.