Visiting Semuc Champey is a big decision when planning your Guatemla trip itenerary. Getting there is…complicated.

Ultimately, I decided to go for it and now have fond memories of this special place.

For me, the name “Semuc Champey” evokes memories of lounging lazily in limestone pools…body, mind and soul relishing the aqua therapy.

Thick foliage hug the edge of the natural pools.

Whispering trees issue an invitation to join them under the forest canopy: come for a dip in the woods. You allow yourself to be seduced.

Wood crunches under your boots. River water streams over a bed of rocks. Everywhere, the lush jungle implores you to see, hear, smell, taste and touch her.

Bathing your senses in the atmosphere of Semuc Champey comes instinctively.

This is the practice of Japanese forest bathing, or Shinrin-Yoku. And while this is all true, it also the over-romanticized version of visiting Semuc Champey.

Here’s everything you should know about going to this beautiful – and very remote – attraction in Guatemala. Consider it your very own “How to Visit Semuc Champey” trip report and guide, based on my own travel experience there.

About Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey is an area of outstanding natural beauty in Guatemala’s heavily forested Alta Verapaz region. It sits at an elevation point of 380 meters high (or 1,250 feet). 

Named by the indigenous Mayan Q’eqchi community, Semuc Champey means “where the river hides”.

That river is the Cahabón River. It passes underneath the plateau and plays an important part in Semuc’s liquid appeal.

Amid the jungle lies a limestone bridge. The natural rock formation spans 300 meters. The Cahabón River penetrates the limestone and the result is a bed of turquoise pools. 

Unsurprisingly, this natural monument is touted as one the best places to see in Guatemala (ranked with the likes of Antigua, Tikal, and Lake Atitlan.) For me, it’s a close runner-up to a visit to the ancient Mayan city of Tikal. Semuc Champey is my #2 top tourist attraction in Guatemala – the place is genuinely breathtaking.

Curious to learn where the absolute best place to visit in Guatemala is? Check it out here.

How to get to Semuc Champey

Nestled deep within remote forest, arriving to this natural wonder in Guatemala is no easy feat. Visiting Semuc Champey is a long, hellish journey – there’s no sugar-coating the bum-aching discomforts you will endure to get there.

It does pay off (though some argue otherwise). Let’s fast-forward to walking through the forest, to the moment when the trees part to reveal the turquoise paradise of Semuc Champey.

In this moment the misery of a weary traveller dissipates.

Every sweat-inducing moment is worth it. Ignore everyone that tells you it is not.

Here’s the good, the bad, and the beautiful of my visit to Semuc Champey.

Visiting Semuc Champey: Flores to Lanquin via Coban

After a day well-spent at Tikal, it’s time for a new jungle adventure: bring on Semuc Champey!

This level of enthusiasm is especially necessary given that the journey that we are about to embark on from Flores to Lanquin will take 8 hours. (Or so they claim. By Central American time standards that likely means “under 10 hours”.)

We head over to a busy hostel in Flores called Los Amigos and book a tourist shuttle. It will depart early in the morning for Lanquin, the town closest to Semuc Champey.

The ride from Flores to Lanquin is the bumpiest ride of my life. An hour doesn’t pass on the trip where I don’t question this decision. We could be spending a low-key day somewhere out on Lake Atitlan but instead, here I am doing the Gravel Bounce.

Hours later, we stop at a McDonalds in Coban, where everyone orders double breakfast portions. Don’t judge – it’s been a physically taxing morning. 

We get back on the road, revived with food and fresh anticipation. Lanquin is now only two hours away.

Then something odd happens.

The movement of the van feels weird…

You’ve got to be kidding me – we have a flat! On a windy road in the middle of nowhere.

It will be another hour before we get moving again, following the appearance of another shuttle driver.

All part of the Adventure…right?

Overnight stay: El Retiro Lodge in Lanquin

Our temperamental shuttle drops us off at the terminal in the small town of Lanquin. And when I say terminal, I mean on the side of a road.

A new driver, this one from El Retiro Lodge where we are booked, appears and whisks us away. Every driver in Central America appears to be incredibly efficient about getting your backpacks on the back or top of their trucks before you can realise what’s happening!

As its name suggests, El Retiro Lodge is a tropical oasis (“el retiro” translates to a retreat or place of rest.) Thatched huts are dotted across the hilly landscape. Our room doesn’t have A/C but it’s fine – collapsing on the hammock outside was always going to be Option A anyways.

At the foot of our mountain retreat is the restaurant. A stream runs gently beside it.

The vibe here is pura vida.

The dinner menu is simple. Conversations around the table are rich and new friendships are formed. Nothing beats serendipitous travel moments like these.

Going from El Retiro Lodge in Lanquin to Semuc Champey

El Retiro Lodge arranges a morning shuttle for us and this time we are invited to occupy the prime seating area at the rear of a small pick-up truck. The value for money here appears to be the open-air views.

New day, new bumpy road. Let’s do this!

Thankfully, this ride isn’t too long. From Lanquin, we arrive at Semuc Champey within an hour and pay a small entrance fee of 50 quetzales (less than $7 USD). We opt not to do a guided tour which means we’ll miss the much-talked-about Semuc caves and tubing adventure. Today, we just want venture around at our own pace.

Getting to the Mirador viewpoint in Semuc Champey

Our first stop will be El Mirador which is the main lookout point.  It takes around 45 minutes to hike to the viewing platform, the last 15 of which involves a stall/complain/drag myself up routine. Fitness fanatics may feel a happy flush from all of this; mine is a flush of misery.

The climb is an unexpected challenge, plus the hiking experience is “enhanced” by the jungle heat.

Thankfully, a group of enterprising indigenous ladies appear on the trail, bearing all kinds of luscious-looking fruit. My quetzales don’t think twice about leaving my side.

At the summit, I give my wobby legs a moment to regroup and then wander over to the viewing platform to see what all the fuss is about. This had better be great.

The sight that greets me leaves me stunned.

Below, the earth below appears to be painted a dazzling mix of turquoise and emerald green.

Long pause.

Slowly, I drink in the vision of before me.

Online photos of Semuc’s limestone pools are not exaggerated. From where I’m looking, this place is just…WOW. 

Spotting Spider Monkeys in Semuc Champey

Off to my left, the trees abruptly start to shimmy and from the corner of my eye I spot a long black tail. It’s the elusive spider monkey – my second sighting in 48 hours! (My first sighting was the day prior in the jungle of Tikal.)

Spider monkeys are native to South and Central America. They have incredibly long limbs and tails which makes for an entertaining watch as they playfully hop from branch to branch, their black bodies stretching most of the way.

Standing above an expanse of limestone pools while a troop of curious monkeys swing by makes me feel like I’m living my best wild-life.

Swimming in the Turquoise Pools of Semuc Champey

Once we’ve spotted the pools, I’m determined to get into them ASAP. Instant gratification takes the wheel.

Humidity adds fuel to the fire. It seems to have a sweaty hand on our backs, shoving us forward.

It’s not too long before we step out from under the thick canopy of trees and find ourselves on the limestone bridge we’d spied from above. Thankfully, the place is not terribly crowded – everyone can enjoy a semi-private frolic in any one of the pools.

I find a shallow area, sit and inhale deeply. Jungle air tastes delicious, in case you’re wondering.

Tentatively, I dip my feet in.

I’ve read that the fish will nibble on your toes and so I mentally prepare for an unconventional exfoliation session.

In a flash, a school of tiny fish appear and nibble they do! It’s a weird sensation but I keep my feet submerged for a bit.

Jungle spa experience – check!

We spend a few more hours lazily floating around the pools – every second feels like I’m breathing in a fresh batch of joy.

Eventually, we call it a day. I am beyond satisfied with the day trip to visit Semuc Champey.

My adventurous soul feels fulfilled.

Forest Bathing in Guatemala – Why I Recommend It

Spending a Wednesday afternoon walking and swimming wild in the depths of remote forest is surely a special experience anywhere. I credit Guatemala for gifting me with one of the best nature experiences in Central America.

In Semuc Champey, I felt disconnected in one respect and yet so connected in another. It’s a place where you can both practise mindfulness and enjoy lively moments too.

My peaceful spirit met my dancing spirit that day in the woods. They made a great couple.

Here’s my fair warning to you: if attempting to go forest bathing in Semuc Champey, Guatemala you run the risk of falling into a dizzy state of happiness.

Is visiting Semuc Champey worth it?

Travellers planning a visit to Semuc Champey should research well beforehand and fully understand that the journey to get to this part of Guatemala and back is arduous. No exaggeration.

However, ask me if it’s worth bouncing and shaking your way to this Central American jungle paradise and my answer is undoubtly: Yes.