Discovering places such as the fishing village of Staithes on the Yorkshire coast has been a highlight of my summer in the UK. What is surprising to me is how little I hear folks rave about this coastal section of England (never, actually).
Perhaps it’s because when you’re London-based as I am, those planning their seaside staycations are looking in a completely different direction – towards South West England. Who isn’t chomping at the bit to head to Devon or Cornwall for a summer getaway?
Prior to this summer, I certainly had never heard of the fishing village in North Yorkshire. Furthermore, if you’d asked me where it was, I’d probably have looked at its name and guessed somewhere in France.
One fantastic roadtrip later, I can confirm that there’s no need for French phrase books. Just an ear for the Yorkshire accent.
Here’s the story of how I found myself in the tiny fishing village of Staithes on a beautiful morning in July.
Also read: Viking Coastal Trail: Cycling the Isle of Thanet
When a journalist for the Telegraph started posting real-time updates on Twitter about his UK cycling tour, it was his stops along England’s northeastern coast that spiked my curiosity.
A few quick searches ensued on “top places to visit on Yorkshire coast” and cute fishing villages as Staithes and Robin Hood Bay appeared. I felt a familiar stirring in my insides and without much resistance I took the bait…SOLD.
In no time the direction was set, the itinerary ‘loose’. Early in this travel plan – if you can call it that – I would visit Staithes, one of several charming coastal villages in North Yorkshire.
Spending an afternoon in the fishing village of Staithes
It’s a pleasant day in the North York Moors (meaning, some sun, no rain). At the bottom of a steep hill lies a picturesque coastal village.
Let me not completely romanticise the vision – the fishing village of Staithes looks a bit worse for wear in some places, cheerful and colourful in others. It’s the combination of industry and small village flair that gives it character.
Presiding over the small town are seabirds whose screams pierce the air as you arrive. I’m terrified of sea gulls in the UK but so far these guys are only interested in finding the optimal perch on nearby rooftops. A respectful distance is all I ask for!
Like every tourist before me, the first order of the day is an idyllic stroll along the High Street. There’s a beautiful simplicity to it all.
Lining the cobbled lanes are modest homes painted in soft pastels. Adjacent to front doors are potted plants that signal the local community’s gardening pride. To complete the homely touch are small benches on which to relax and enjoy the blooms. It gives the place a neighbourly feel.
There are a few shops scattered along the street. One teases you with the mouth-watering promise of ice-cream or gelato. Not needing any introduction is the requisite pub, a café, and a butcher’s shop whose storefront tempts passersby’s with treats of the non-meat variety: fresh home-made jams. Mmmmm…
Supporting these small businesses is an absolute must, especially from those of us who descend into these communities, snapping tons of pictures for memories and the ‘gram. Fair trade, right?
The busiest establishment in town is surely the recommendation that will pop up on your search for “best place to eat in Staithes”: the Cod & Lobster pub and restaurant. Of course, my attempt to snag a table for lunch without pre-booking fails swiftly.
Foodie dreams crushed (my craving for fish and chips is now stronger than ever!), I drift away from the High Street and head further out towards the cliffside. This means taking my chances with the winged population which, by the looks and sounds of things, has a hangout spot by the edge of the village.
It proves to be a walk well worth it for several reasons.
First, there’s a bit of entertainment to be found here. A colony of birds has congregated by one section of the cliffs. Again, normally I’d be terrified, but these birds seem non-threatening. Perhaps the reason for that is, they appear to be young gulls and it sure looks like they are learning to use their wings.
Between their short-lived flights and distinctive high-pitched vocal chords, the young ‘uns give a good show.
Moving the attention from the cliffs and back towards the town, my bankside location offers another sight to behold: it’s an excellent viewpoint of where town meets sea. The North Sea, to be precise.
As you gaze across the water it’s easy to imagine the countless vessels that sailed in and out of this harbour over the centuries. Although it’s not the booming fishing village that I understand it formerly was, evident are the tools of the trade that power this town’s economy.
Lobster traps lying along the banks may be an everyday sight for residents here but they are a major point of interest for me. It’s very cool to catch a glimpse of the “behind the scenes” fishing equipment – particularly for someone whose sole experience with lobster is ordering it at a restaurant.
Idle traps on a quiet harbourside, colourful cottages nestled between rugged cliffs – it all makes for a beautiful parting sight. Certainly a joyful lift to my northern-deprived explorer spirit.
Now, if only I could get another type of lift – one that will magically elevate me to the top of that awful hill. It’s the least pleasant part of the visit to Staithes but no real complaints here. Discovering the traditional fishing village on the North Yorkshire coast has been worth it.
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What no photo with Bernard Cribbins?! Or at least his cut out. We were in Staithes for the first time in June and it is lovely indeed.
Ooops, just looked him up! The town’s Old Jack’s Boat sticker trail is such a cool idea for the kids. Love a good treasure hunt.
I’ve never heard of Staithes. Thanks for bringing this place to my attention. 😀
You’re quite welcome. That was also me before this little getaway!