Today was a day of firsts. The first groundbreaking event to occur was…I hiked in rain for the first time. Backpack on, rain pummelling down – the whole shebang.

Oh, England.

More importantly, it’s my first multi-day hike. I’m walking the Cotswold Way. Well, a few stages of it really.

This section from Tormarton to Wotton-under-Edge was a total of 16 miles. That’s the most miles I’ve covered in one day to date and yes, I’m one proud peacock saying that. 

It’s incredible how one day you’re walking around the local park, then it’s a leisurely weekend hike, followed by another – with a few small peaks thrown in for good measure, and before you know it – long-distance walking.

Does this mean I’m hooked?

What is the Cotswold Way?

The Cotswold Way is one of England’s National Trails. It is a linear path that runs for 102 miles between the city of Bath and the village of Chipping Campden.

This countryside walk is wonderfully scenic; I had the pleasure of experiencing the trail in the month of October, in all of its autumnal glory.

Is the Cotswold Way suitable for beginners?

Yes, if you’re contemplating National Trails and which one to go on as a beginner, the Cotswold Way is a good choice.

Fellow novice walkers: you can do this!

Planning your Cotswold Way walk

Some folks walk the Cotswold Way in one go, over the course of several days; others do it over repeated visits. I fall in Group B. My idea is to check it out over 2 or 3 trips, experiencing it in different seasons.

After doing quite a bit of homework on the various sections of the trail, I customised my Cotswold Way walking plan to feature ‘Moderate’ stages, going from South to North. I chose to skip the first stage from Bath as most walkers cited this as one of their least favourite legs. My long-distance debut needed an inspiring start.

I also made sure to include a couple day breaks in some of the prettiest villages in the Cotswolds such as Painswick, also known as “Queen of the Cotswolds”.

Starting the Cotswold Way from Tormarton

What story about an English adventure can start without reference to the weather?

The night before starting the Cotswold Way at Tormarton, the news reported that the UK would be experiencing extreme rainfall over the next few days. Just great. 

Sure enough, I awoke to the sound of rain hitting the window panes. That pitter patter is usually one of the most pleasant sounds to dance across your semi-conscious brain; this morning, it only evoked disappointment.

Was this going to ruin the beautiful plan of walking the Cotswold Way? 

Over the short span of my UK hiking career, somehow I’ve always managed to score sunny weather. Call it beginner’s luck. (It’s more likely because I haven’t hiked much during England’s wettest months, from October to January.)

Whatever the reason, my days of dodging the rain were obviously over. It was time to bust out the flimsy plastic poncho that had made it on an afterthought. (By the end of the day, it would deserve a medal for its hard work.)

If you believe in signs, then check out the one beamed down to me as I was walking out of the Compass Inn in Tormarton. 

Come rain or shine, it was going to be a beautiful day. 

Dodington Park – Cotswold Way

The Way first takes you through a portion of the elaborate Dodington Park.

While you can’t spot the country house, there’s still more than enough to marvel at across the massive estate. 

British country estates as Dodington Park are especially intriguing to me. It’s where historical interest and personal heritage collide. From the outset, you see gorgeous landscaped gardens and all the marks of immeasurable wealth.

But the elaborate spread wasn’t sprung from just any wealth. This was built from colonial wealth, funneled from former sugar plantations in the Caribbean. 

Interested in the origin story? The quick rundown is: the Codrington family who owned and developed Dodington Park extensively were extreme slave owners. As their sugar fortune expanded, so did this estate.

It is now owned by James Dyson, of vacuum cleaner wealth. 

Pub Stop: The Dog Inn in Old Sodbury

The trail then passes through the village of Old Sodbury.

It was too early in my walk for a pint stop but it would be remiss not to point out this pub option for other walkers possibly tackling thirst at this stage.

Church of Saint John the Baptist in Old Sodbury

The next point of interest on the Cotswold Way is the Old Sodbury church. You can’t miss the church’s clock tower which makes a not-so-subtle statement at the top of a small hill.

Had it not been raining cats and dogs in that moment, I just know that this view would have been a real treat.

If there’s one realisation that you come to early on in this walk, it’s that you’re never spoilt for views on the Cotswold Way.

Iron Age Hill Fort at Woodcock Farm in Old Sodbury

Next came a march across the muddy field of an Iron Age Hill Fort. This is where ancient tribes and armies would have camped out during battle.

From an information board at Woodcock Farm, I noticed the mention of “Thankful Village”. I’d never heard of this reference before so I kept reading.

Cotswold Way History Break: What is a “Thankful Village”?

Old Sodbury is one of England’s “Thankful Villages”. It’s an uncommon designation for a village in this country.

“Thankful Village” is a term that was coined in the 1930’s by a writer called Arthur Mee. He used it to describe the few villages whose men served in World War I (1914 – 1918) and returned alive. Old Sodbury got all her men back.

We’re walkin’ and learnin’!

Walking the Cotswold Way: Horton

This segment of the day’s walk was probably my favourite as it featured a phenomenal mix of villages, woodlands, and grassy pastures.

The Cotswold Way rolls across the green carpet of the Horton Court grounds where a distinctive tower stands. Initially, I assumed it was some sort of ancient lookout structure but in fact, it was built in the 21st century and for an entirely different purpose.

It is a dovecote, built to house swallows and for owls to have a nesting place. 

Within minutes of leaving Horton Court, I found my lunch spot and the place that I’d designate as “Cotswold Way Viewpoint of the Day”.

As you leave Horton and start heading towards Hawkesbury Upton you enter more woodlands.

It was late October and the ground was littered with golden brown leaves. It felt like I’d stepped into an Autumn dream.

Somerset Monument

Past Hawkesbury Upton, a tall structure appears across the skyline. This is the Somerset Monument.

It was a welcome sight. For the first time on the walk, I had started to feel a bit underwhelmed.

Hiker’s Note: Hawkesbury Upton is a good place to end for the day if you prefer a shorter stage: Tormarton to Hawkesbury Upton, or if walking from North to South: Wotton-Under-Edge to Hawkesbury Upton.

Lower Kilcott and Alderley to Wotton-Under-Edge

Next on the Cotswold Way comes quiet country lanes and more picturesque Cotswolds villages.

Across the road at a pond, a young boy with a fishing line screamed in what sounded like a mix of sheer terror and delight. Grandad stood next to him, watching with pride. Had I just witnessed the kid’s first catch?

As beautiful as the idyllic village vibe was, my tender soles begged to be removed from the gravel surface. It was the soft landing on grass and damp ground that had allowed me to press on this far. Thankfully, the path re-entered farmland soon after.

In the quiet village of Alderley, the sun began to dip. Earth tones morphed together, creating a stunning effect as green fields shone under the warm orange glow.

As the Way dipped down into woodlands in Alderley, I picked up the pace. Going faster, but not so much as to miss the subtle melodies playing en route.

Evening bird song filling the air.

Water streamed down a moss-covered rock.

The day of walking on the Cotswold Way came to a late close in the village of Wotton-under-Edge. I checked into the Swan Inn and glided into bed soon after, content as ever.

16 miles today! I’m loving it so far.