Isle of Portland tends to be an elusive stop for visitors to Dorset. Which is exactly why I’ve decided to explore it for the day.

Perhaps it’s the isolated location, sitting there all by itself just beyond Weymouth. Or, maybe it simply gets overlooked because most people can’t help but make a beeline to popular spots along the gorgeous Jurassic Coast. (Okay, very guilty)

But whatever the reason thank goodness I followed my traveller’s curiosity because what I found here was quite unexpected.

The most surprising aspect of Portland to a first-time visitor is the variety of its attractions. A bizarre sculpture park in a former quarry, an attractive lighthouse boldly dressed in red and white stripes, a secluded beach (that I must visit again), lookout points to either observe all of the birdlife or to enjoy unique views of the Jurassic Coast. The list goes on…

Do any of these sound appealing to you? If yes, read on!

Introduction to the Isle of Portland in Dorset

The Isle of Portland is the southern most point in Dorset. It is connected to the mainland by a causeway at Chesil Beach.

What is the Isle of Portland famous for?

The Isle of Portland is best known for its building stone. Portland Stone is a limestone which has been used in famous UK structures such as St Paul’s Cathedral, Buckingham Palace, Tower of London and The Cenotaph, a war memorial in Whitehall, London.

What is the best way to explore the Isle of Portland?

Visiting the top attractions on the Isle of Portland is easy – go on foot. The best way to see Isle of Portland’s best attractions is to walk around on a pleasant day.

A nice bonus to planning a Portland walking tour itinerary is…you don’t have to! The South West Coast Path circles all of Portland which means the route is already set. Conveniently, many of the best things to do on Isle of Portland can be found on the circular route.

South West Coast Path (SWCP) – Isle of Portland

The South West Coast Path is the longest National Trail in the UK. It runs from the seaside town of Minehead in Somerset to Poole Harbour in Dorset, Europe’s largest natural harbour. It goes up, down and across the breathtaking coastlines of Devon and Cornwall and then along Dorset’s Jurassic Coast. 630 miles of gorgeous – and sometimes gruelling – coastal walking.

Walking the South West Coast is the best thing to do in Portland as a first-time visitor. As with most of the trail, the path here is well-waymarked with plenty of wooden signs decorated with National Trail Acorn symbols to guide walkers.

How difficult is it to walk around the Isle of Portland?

The Isle of Portland circular is a moderate walk which can be completed in 4 hours.

I scored incredible weather when I visited in May – it was the perfect sunny day to walk. Of course, it’d be much trickier to navigate the clifftop path in wet and windy conditions.

Also worth mentioning – there is a SWCP section on the eastern side of Portland which was a bit confusing to navigate. If you happen to stray off of the path by Church Ope Cove / East Weares, expect to do a bit of scrambling to get back on it!

Where is the starting point for the Isle of Portland walk?

A great starting point for the Isle of Portland walk is the grassy clifftop by The Heights Hotel. Look for the Memory Stones landmark. There will be signs to the coastal path which take you across the West Cliff first, walking anti-clockwise.

Walking around Isle of Portland: Best things to see and do

From modern-day art installation to old military fortifications and abandoned quarries, here are the top attractions you shouldn’t miss.

Portland Memory Stones

Great for: observing stones that mark Spring and Autumn Equinox and Summer and Winter Solstice

Portland’s Memory Stones installation is a collection of large blocks of Portland Stone which are specially positioned to align with the passage of the sun.

The arc of stones also marks the entrance to one of Portland’s top places of interest: Tout Quarry.

Tout Quarry Sculpture Park and Nature Reserve

Great for: enjoying unique displays of art in an old quarry

Tout Quarry is a disused quarry which is now home to stone sculptures and wildlife.

As sections of the coastal path along the West Cliff are closed due to erosion, an alternate route takes you through here instead. You won’t be disappointed…

As I strolled around, I’d hoped to have a chance meeting with silver-studded butterflies which are unique to Portland, but no such luck. 

I did however encounter many different animals – and mystical creatures even – all sculpted from Portland Stone. 

Tout Quarry Walking Tip: Search for the ‘Still Falling’ stone art by the internationally renowned sculptor, Antony Gormley. It’s one of the sixty or so sculptures to be found in the park. Happy Hunting!

Blacknor Point

Great for: views across the prettiest section of the South West Coast Path on Isle of Portland

Blacknor Point is the location of Blacknor Fort, otherwise known as West Weares Battery.

Blacknor Point Walking Tip: Look for the old World War II gun position near to the old fort.

The walk on Blacknor Point to the perimeter of the fort is fantastic for the scenery. The path becomes directly exposed to the cliff face and the composition of the rock is intriguing to look at. It’s easy to forget that this impressive mass of limestone is quite fragile.

Whether walking the full circular or headed to chill by the West Cliffs, enjoying viewpoints on Blacknor Point is one of the best things to do on Isle of Portland. Go with caution however as the land has been shaking up in this area in recent years.

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After leaving Blacknor Point, the trail will lead to Portland Bill at the southernmost point.

En route, I spotted a furry guy who is said to be a bad omen in Portland: a rabbit! The burrowing animals were blamed for deadly landslips and quarry accidents back in the day. According to local superstition, rabbits would appear right before major rock falls, making swift emergency exits from the destructive holes they’d dug underground.

Portland Bill Lighthouse 

Great for: wave-watching

Portland Bill Lighthouse is a top-rated tourist attraction located on the southern tip. It is easy to see why it’s one of the best things to do in the Isle of Portland…

Portland Bill is also a great halfway point on the circular walk to stop for a snack. An ice-cream from Lobster Pot Café gave me a fresh boost of energy before continuing on to the eastern side.

Can you tour Portland Bill Lighthouse?

Yes, there is a Visitor Centre at Portland Bill Lighthouse which offers guided tours. It has on-site exhibitions where visitors can explore the history of the lighthouse via interactive displays. 

Better yet, ready those legs to climb the 153 steps of the lighthouse!

Then prepare yourself for the ultimate view across Portland Race.

What is Portland Race?

Portland Race refers to the treacherous waters off of Portland Bill where the tides clash fiercely against each other. Reminiscent of a sibling spat, no doubt.

In the past, several vessels lost that fight and sank here. Today, Portland Bill shines its powerful beams across the choppy waters, guiding ships to safely navigate around Portland Race and The Shambles sandbank.

Portland Bill Old Lower Lighthouse and Old Higher Lighthouse

Great for: relaxing in cool converted spaces and enjoying nature

Before the existing Portland Bill Lighthouse was built, came the Old Higher Lighthouse and the Old Lower Lighthouse.

The Old Lower Lighthouse has since been repurposed and is the Portland Bird Observatory and Field Centre.

The Old Higher Lighthouse also has a fun new identity: a holiday residence. Previous guests at this unique accommodation describe it as a lovely place to chill out and watch the passing ships and changing seascape. As a lover of all things rooftop, guest access to the top of Old Lower Lighthouse is definitely the main selling point for me. 

Pulpit Rock

Great for: cool rock photography – possibly with an adventurous human posing on top!

Portland’s Pulpit Rock is a distinctive artificial sea stack located on it southern end.

It is possible to climb Pulpit Rock thanks to hand and foot holds carved out in the rock. I cannot be counted among the brave who’ve scampered up Pulpit Rock. Neither sheer thrill nor the photo opp would lure me out or up there!

Cheyne Cliff

Great for: rock climbing

Cheyne Cliff is the highest cliff on the east coast of Portland which means it is a magnet for climbers. If walking by on the coastal path, it’s impossible to miss them bravely attached to the wall of limestone.

The cliffs are also a popular attraction for another visitor: birds. Peregrine falcons typically nest in their crevices from March through June.  

Church Ope Cove

Great for: an escape to a hidden beach in Dorset

Church Ope Cove may be the most surprising location that you’ll stumble upon while exploring the Portland coastline.

The beach is tucked away so discreetly that you aren’t aware that it’s there until you’re practically on top of it!

Church Ope Cove tops the list of best things to do in Isle of Portland in the summer. It was love at first sight for me – except for the extra-large pebbles deposited on its shore. Ouch.

Rufus Castle

Great for: picturing Portland defenders behind its walls attacking invaders with bow and arrows

Rufus Castle is in a substantial state of ruin, however, the remains of the 15th century castle provides an interesting landmark to observe from the coastal path.

It is also known by a more fun name: Bow and Arrow Castle. This is because there are small openings in its walls just large enough for archers to point and shoot at unwelcome visitors. It is likely that invaders attempted to land at Church Ope Cove below it.

Isle of Portland Fun Fact: On the topic of unwelcome visitors, did you know that the first recorded landing of the Vikings in England was on the Isle of Portland way back in 789AD?

Penn’s Weare

Great for: exploring the wilder untamed side of Portland along the eastern landscape

Instead of continuing directly along the undercliff by Eastern Weares, why not take the more adventurous route along the top of Penn’s Weare? (The alternative path lured me away from the official South West Coast Path as I headed out to get a better look at Church Ope Cove from above.)

The rugged terrain at Penn’s Weare looks like a beautiful mishap. Grass and wildflowers tumble everywhere. Slabs of stone in different sizes are scattered around, not yet meeting their fate of toppling over into the sea below.

Even the footpaths rebel. Several small trails zig-zag across the clifftop. This is the part where instinct must guide!

Or, remaining above on the South West Coast path (an old quarry road) gives a great view over Penn’s Weare.

Portland Pillboxes: Durdle Pier

Great for: tactical insight on how the use of Portland Stone helped camouflage pillboxes on Portland

Obsessed with World War II? If the answer if yes, then one of the best things to do on the Isle of Portland is to search for pillboxes. Walking is the only way to get up close and inspect them.

There are a couple pillboxes which remain in good condition close to Durdle Pier. They are made of Portland Stone and blend into the boulder-strewn landscape quite well.

More pillboxes lie around in partially-hidden locations across East Weares. On my next trip to Portland, I’d be interested in playing a bit of ‘pillbox hunt’ to locate the others which escaped me on this walk (as they were built to do!)

East Weares Rifle Range – Stop Butt

Great for: more lessons on the military history of Portland

Further inland from Durdle Pier lies another reminder of the military presence on Portland. A massive concrete structure can be clearly seen from the South West Coast Path. This is a stop butt for the bullets previously fired at East Weares Rifle Range. It was designed to stop stray bullets and to prevent them from ricocheting.

For officers requiring military training, practising at the naval firing range would have been one of the best things to do on Isle of Portland. It was closed in the 1980’s due to safety concerns around public footpaths surrounding the range. Excellent decision that was!

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The South West Coast Path then climbs it way up and meets the road. It’s now a face-to-face encounter with the high fences of Portland’s Young Offenders Institution. The path continues inland where you can also see other sights as King Barrow Quarry, The Verne Citadel and Portland Castle.

My walk ends here but the Portland experience does not. It’s off to Chesil Chippie for a well-earned meal!

Final thoughts: Is it worth it to go to Isle of Portland?

A visit to the Isle of Portland is absolutely worth it. I especially like that walking around Portland appeals to so many types of visitors.

Portland Bill is a great spot for a family adventure. Lovers of wartime or maritime history will be intrigued by all of the relics that appear on the route. And of course, the South West Coast Path on Portland is a major draw for walkers.

Whichever place or activity appeals to you the most, Isle of Portland is a great option when taking a day trip to Dorset.